Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity
Bilberries, consumed since ancient times, are reputed to function as potent antioxidants because of a wide array of phenolic constituents, and this fruit is gaining interest for use in pharmaceuticals.12
In 2008, Svobodová et al. assessed possible UVA preventive properties of V. myrtillus fruit extract in a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), finding that pre- or posttreatment mitigated UVA-induced harm. They also observed a significant decrease in UVA-caused reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation and the prevention or attenuation of UVA-stimulated peroxidation of membrane lipids. Intracellular glutathione was also protected. The investigators attributed the array of cytoprotective effects conferred by V. myrtillus extract primarily to its constituent anthocyanins.2 A year later, they found that the phenolic fraction of V. myrtillus fruits inhibited UVB-induced damage to HaCaT keratinocytes in vitro.13
In 2014, Calò and Marabini used HaCaT keratinocytes to ascertain whether a water-soluble V. myrtillus extract could mitigate UVA- and UVB-induced damage. They found that the extract diminished UVB-induced cytotoxicity and genotoxicity at lower doses, decreasing lipid peroxidation but exerting no effect on reactive oxygen species generated by UVB. The extract attenuated genotoxicity induced by UVA as well as ROS and apoptosis. Overall, the investigators concluded that V. myrtillus extract demonstrated antioxidant activity, particularly against UVA exposure.14
Four years later, Bucci et al. developed nanoberries, an ultradeformable liposome carrying V. myrtillus ethanolic extract, and determined that the preparation could penetrate the stratum corneum safely and suggested potential for yielding protection against photodamage.15
Skin preparations
In 2021, Tadic et al. developed an oil-in-water (O/W) cream containing wild bilberry leaf extracts and seed oil. The leaves contained copious phenolic acids (particularly chlorogenic acid), flavonoids (especially isoquercetin), and resveratrol. The seed oil was rife with alpha-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids. The investigators conducted an in vivo study over 30 days in 25 healthy volunteers (20 women, 5 men; mean age 23.36 ± 0.64 years). They found that the O/W cream successfully increased stratum corneum hydration, enhanced skin barrier function, and maintained skin pH after topical application. The cream was also well tolerated. In vitro assays also indicated that the bilberry isolates displayed notable antioxidant capacity (stronger in the case of the leaves). Tadic et al. suggested that skin disorders characterized by oxidative stress and/or xerosis may be appropriate targets for topically applied bilberry cream.1
Early in 2022, Ruscinc et al. reported on their efforts to incorporate V. myrtillus extract into a multifunctional sunscreen. In vitro and in vivo tests revealed that while sun protection factor was lowered in the presence of the extract, the samples were safe and photostable. The researchers concluded that further study is necessary to elucidate the effect of V. myrtillus extract on photoprotection.16
V. myrtillus has been consumed by human beings for many generations. Skin care formulations based on this ingredient have not been associated with adverse events. Notably, the Environmental Working Group has rated V. myrtillus (bilberry seed) oil as very safe.17
Summary
While research, particularly in the form of randomized controlled trials, is called for, because the fatty acids it contains have been shown to suppress tyrosinase. Currently, this botanical agent seems to be most suited for sensitive, aging skin and for skin with an uneven tone, particularly postinflammatory pigmentation and melasma.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, an SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
References
1. Tadic VM et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021 Mar 16;10(3):465.
2. Svobodová A et al. Biofactors. 2008;33(4):249-66.
3. Chu WK et al. Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.), in Benzie IFF, Wachtel-Galor S, eds., “Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects,” 2nd ed. (Boca Raton, Fla.: CRC Press/Taylor & Francis, 2011, Chapter 4).
4. Yamaura K et al. Pharmacognosy Res. 2011 Jul;3(3):173-7.
5. Stefanescu BE et al. Molecules. 2019 May 29;24(11):2046.
6. Smeriglio A et al. Mini Rev Med Chem. 2014;14(7):567-84.
7. Ando H et al. Arch Dermatol Res. 1998 Jul;290(7):375-81.
8. Burdulis D et al. Acta Pol Pharm. 2009 Jul-Aug;66(4):399-408.
9. Bornsek SM et al. Food Chem. 2012 Oct 15;134(4):1878-84.
10. Brasanac-Vukanovic S et al. Molecules. 2018 Jul 26;23(8):1864.
11. Yamaura K et al. J Food Sci. 2012 Dec;77(12):H262-7.
12. Pires TCSP et al. Curr Pharm Des. 2020;26(16):1917-28.
13. Svobodová A et al. J Dermatol Sci. 2009 Dec;56(3):196-204.
14. Calò R, Marabini L. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014 Mar 5;132:27-35.
15. Bucci P et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Oct;17(5):889-99.
16. Ruscinc N et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Jan 13.
17. Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep website. Vaccinium Myrtillus Bilberry Seed Oil. Accessed October 18, 2022.